I SPENT THE BEST PART of Wednesday evening along Lough Derg at Brocka on the Water, a lovely country home with sumptuous meals. You can get a flavour for the place by listening to my TippFood Audioboo or by looking at a Qik clip I shot while walking around the patio area. There's a joy in knowing that everything on your fork might have arrived in the kitchen with just two feet carrying the crate. In Brocka on the Water, most of the herbs come from just around the corner from the kitchen or up a pebbled path where a 20m tunnel of polyethylene surrounds a naturally productive plot of composted soil. The tunnel is a hand-fashioned glasshouse, minus the glass. It's remarkable on its own and critically important in achieving the signature taste of the chef's creations in the dining room of Brocka on the Water.